Jewelry as Art; Art as Delight

So, first things first. When I was in college—and to explain, college was this thing we used to do before we had reality TV shows to star in—I went though a silent-film phase (no, really, I did and trust me, of all the phases I went through, that was the least regrettable).
Because of it’s unique restrictions, silent film has a very particular clarity and beauty to
it, not to mention the gorgeous depth of black-and-white film stock, the loss of which in the modern cinema is deeply unfortunate. But that’s really all beside the point, because I want to talk about Greta Garbo, the queen of silent film. You know her? If you don’t, she was an actress, which is akin to saying that Tom Waits has a unique musical style. Everything anyone ever says, writes, blogs, bleets or tweets about the glamour, elegance, grace and beauty of “Old Hollywood,” they’re really only talking about one person, namely Greta Garbo. What made Garbo, well, Garbo was her innate capacity to project both a smoldering intensity and a glacial indifference, something best exemplified by the ring above.
Designed expressly for her by the storied jewelry company Van Cleef & Arpels, the ring perfectly expresses Garbo’s allure—an icy and serene exterior, lit from within by ultimately unknowable but utterly mesmerizing fires. Van Cleef & Arpels did more than craft a beautiful ring, they captured the garboness of Garbo in a setting.
It’s in this ability—to take something as prosaic as a ring and transpose the essence of a person inside it—that reveals the genius of Van Cleef & Arpels, a genius that is very much on display in the Cooper-Hewitt, National Design Museum’s Set in Style: The Jewelry of Van Cleef & Arpels, on exhibit through June 5th, 2011.
Set in Style is organized into six themes: Innovation, Transformations, Nature as Inspiration, Exoticism, Fashion and Personalities (where Garbo’s ring lives). It’s a clearly delineated structure through which to experience the masterworks of VC&A, with each theme illustrating a particular dimension of the jewelers’ work. The overall effect of the exhibition makes visible (in sparkling and bejeweled detail) the ongoing conversation VC&A held not only with the history and craft of their trade, but with wider world as well.
And I know what you’re thinking—jewelry is jewelry is jewelry, but what VC&A did was
elevate craftsmanship and technique to such a height that the work transcends the idea of jewelry as being a mere lady’s accoutrement and into pure and perfect art. Ultimately, the purpose of art is to delight and that is exactly what the broaches, bracelets and rings of VC&A do—from technical innovations like the famed Zipper Necklace, that adopts the mundane, everyday zipper and transforms it into the extraordinary or their adaptation of the flow and drape of lace and silk into something new, surprising and ultimately, delightful.


We started close to home at the 
I found the answer to my question crammed inside a tiny warehouse in the heart of the Meatpacking District at the latest exhibition of renowned graffiti artist
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